Madeira Fine Wine - a brief review

History

The history of Madeira Wine began at Napoli di Malvazia not far away from Sparta which wine from this region was very famous in the Middle Age. Nevertheless it disappears and it was found at Candia vineyards in Crete Island were they were exported since the XV century to Madeira Island. This trade was lead by Italy (Venetia) however this “spot” was very desired by other countries such England, Holland, Northern Countries between others.

Discovered in 1418/9 by João Gonçalves Zarco, Tristão Vaz Teixeira and Bartolomeu Perestrello a quarter of a century later Madeira Island already produces good wine as it was said by several sailors that pass throw the island at D. Henrique Infant (the so called discover age founder) service.

In this microclimatic region the vineyards are mainly found in the south of the Island with sunny landscapes in places such as Câmara de Lobos, Campanário, Estreito e Ponta do Pargo. Later we will find vineyards in Porto Santo Island. The soils are volcanic and balsamic which give an high acidity and a predisposition to ageing and the vineyards as in Douro Valley are planted in plots which were braved open by thousands workers during the centuries.

This new wine region was shown to the English people as great place to fight the Venetian monopoly and first exportation to Europe was in 1515 to Francisco I courts in France.

However only in XVII century that their production was improved caused by sugar cycle declination and it was considered one of the most expensive and appreciated wines in the world. Clarence douche hang in London Tour prison with death sentence choose to be sunk in Madeira wine!!! In XIX century was the finest wine in the European courts where also used as perfume. Shakespeare made also a reference to Madeira wine in Henry IV.
When in 1852 and 1872 plagues such as oidium and phylloxera appear and threat the wine production many thought that was the end of one the best wines but some expertises which were able to travel around the world made some crosses with qualities and types of vines and they managed the survival of Madeira wine industry and also in those years of Madeira Island.

Grape Varieties

Although we can find more than 30 different grape varieties in Madeira we can say that Madeira wine production is around 90% made with Tinta Negra Mole grape variety and 10% with the noble grapes which are Boal, Malvasia, Verdelho e Sercial. We can also say that Terrantez is an important one. They have their origins in: Boal - Bordeaux (France), Malvasia - Crete Island, Verdelho – unknown region and Sercial - Riesling (Germany).

Boal is usually half sweet, full of aroma and flavour and should be used between the roasted meet and desert. Malvasia is very aromatic with a red brown colour and is very sweet. Should be drunk during the desert or between meals. About Sercial is the driest one with an amber colour and should be drunk as an aperitif. Finally, Verdelho we can say that this kind of grape variety is half dry with a bouquet of almonds and with a gold colour. Terrantez is “something” between Boal and Verdelho.

Production

Madeira wine appeared without any conscience as we know in nowadays. When the exporters put the barrels on the ships to transport them to other countries such as India or Hong Kong they hadn’t the idea that the transport of it will transform all the content of the barrels. The high temperatures that they used to caught crossing the equator would give the wine other conditions and the flavour would be completely different. As a sauna the wines were subjected to a treatment, nowadays called hot houses (estufas) that award them with other characteristics and a more delicate flavour.

The Madeira wine companies use two processes to produce fine wine: Canteiro e Estufa. The first one is traduced in a process which after the fermentation the barrels are supported by wood putted two or three hands above the soil, after what the treatments are made. In the second process the wine is object of high temperatures during around three months, process this which aged the wine quickly. This second process is the so called traditional way of making Madeira wine. The alcohol (cognac) addicted in the different fermentations, depending on the dryness or sweetness, is a minimum of 96%, a alcohol graduation varies between 17 and 22% of volume a the sugar between 0 and 170 gms per litre.

We can fin Madeira wine in categories as:

Rainwater
5 years old Reserve
Alvada
10 years old Reserve, Special Reserve or Reserva Velha
15 years old reserve or Extra Reserve
20 years old Reserve
30 years old Reserve
40 years old Reserve
Solera
Vintage or Frasqueira
Harvest
Colheita

Main Figures
The so called “Borracheiros”, people used to carry the grapes from the vineyards to the lagares. The “Tanoeiros” whom where the people who still nowadays make the casks where the wine is kept and the producers whom the main ones are: Artur Barros & Sousa, Lda., Henriques & Henriques Vinhos, S.A., H. M. Borges Sucrs., Lda., Madeira Wine Company, S.A., Pereira D’Oliveira (Vinhos), Lda., Silva Vinhos, Lda., Vinhos Barbeito (Madeira), Lda., Vinhos Justino Henriques, Filhos, Lda.